77.25 9.00 2019 The Author(s). COVER 0.3256 3.18 Failure of the seams of the garment by breaking the sewing thread or by seam slippage affects serviceability. In this study, it is planned to explain the importance of the seam performance of garments. -0.45 2 affected by moisture and perspiration. Seam slippage, which affects the sewn seam, can also be measured by subtracting the elongation of the fabric from that of the fabric with a seam in it. 3.34 makes the fabric yarns to be more slippery and also reduces 2. (5), the difference between original length and puckered length gives a percentage for seam pucker. Breaking Load at 6.0 mm opening (Kgf) 64.60 1 Needle penetration force is one of the most important factors affecting the seam efficiency of a sewn garment. Introduction Fabrics made from both natural and manufactured fibres have been extensively used for clothing, decoration and industrial applications. combination. 2000 7. 4.70 value 0.33(table no: - 7) with seam slippage strength which indicates 5600.85 Y0 8602.00601 4.85 is as furnished below :-, 1 13.17 These defects are usually attributed to either a fault with the sewing machine, improper material or a worker error. 4.28 2.1 Numerical Expressions of Seams 5.00 seam slippage strength 4.85 4.07 5.97 Seam slippage occurs on woven fabric, when yarns The quantitative value of the needle penetration force is important in the manner of determining sewing damages that can appear in the sewing process on the fabric and is an important influence on the quality of the garment [19]. 1.497323403 23.25 Consider the readings when seam starts to open. normal curve by least square 6 7. PROCESS PARAMETER (GSM*COVER FACTOR) Vs. 0.6096 The average stitch length is 2.5mm. 0.5191 0.8921 7.19 than the twill and satin. It is most commonly seen in belt loops or bets for which a folder can be attached to the machine. AP-8-13 1 In the slippage strength(y0) 6 Y0 strength(y0) An improvement in the stretch performance of a seam can be achieved by a balanced stitch. Which makes seam fail even their is no any rupture or breakage. 0.6721 by least square method are 3. They help us to know which pages are the most and least popular and see how visitors move around the site. established as an international standard and most apparel industries follow this 7 X2 2. 50.6763 STRENGTH(KG/C Y0=9.27X32.29------------(3.3), SEAM SLIPPAGE STRENGTH 0.6857 Sourcing Merchandiser at Reliance Retail Ltd. || 2359.31 4.70 8A + 154.80B = 5.7200 Y=logY0 4.28 726.9718 8A + 10.25B = 5.7200 WOVEN 0.148225 Standards are very important in determining stitch types. 2.1 Seam Strength: This test method is used to determine the seam maximum forceof sewn seams when the force is applied perpendicularly to the seam. As per description the equations 6 Warp Lets see the procedure for seam slippage. 8 5.00 0 1.58 With fabric with higher GSM have more compactness & hence generates 19.3 3. 1.8134 TABLE FOR REALTIONSHIP BETWEEN GSM & SEAM Journal of Engineering Sciences Vol. 154.80 These generally start with two or more pieces of material superimposed over each other and joined near an edge, with one or more rows of stitches. 0.6857 1 In recent years, more importance is given to quality, comfort and fit of the garment in the clothing industry. A higher SPI indicates greater stitch density and often higher quality stitching. A universal testing machine capable of performing a tensile adhesion test at a constant-rate-of-extensionis required to run the test at a 305 10 mm/min (12.0 0.5 in./min) grip separation rate. Loops of needle thread are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of bobbin thread. 2. If the penetration force did not exceed set level 75 cN, then the sewability value was zero, and sewability was considered to be very good. m2)(Y0)) 0.5966 GSM(GM/M2) SLIPPAGE 0.0507 Low seam efficiency values indicate that the sewn fabric is damaged during sewing. Seams of the garment must be durable and smooth. The simplest of these operations is Serging, Type 6.01.01, in which a cut edge of a single ply is reinforced by over edge stitching to neaten and prevent fraying. 129.45 according to fitting normal curve by least 0.09 4.85 Longer stitch lengths create needle flex and increase tension changes. SPI: - 11 4.85 COVER FACTOR(X2) VS SEAM SLIPPAGE Seam strength. SL. STRENGTH(KG BETWEEN (X1& Y0) 8 3.95 By Sena Cimilli Duru, Cevza Candan and Banu Uygun Nergis. This is the typical setting on the sewing machines. Different types of stitches and different 0.6721 Relation among gsm,yarn count,stitch length & fabric construction, Yarn Manufacturing Process : Comber Part III [Fractionation at comber], SVKMs, NMIMS, MPSTME, CTF, Shirpur, Dist. 1.00 fabric, rpm of the machine, GSM of the fabric , The short stitch length will be packed into each inch of stitching, creating a tighter seam. 0.6314 parameters. Needle-related damage due to sewing in woven fabrics can be measured according to ASTM D 1908-89 The Needle-Related Damage due to Sewing in Woven Fabric standard. Kong Polytechnic University) (3.1), of exponential equation constants (series 1) for 18.23 derived by taking some sample and calculation of standard error. 7.80 8 A high sewing needle penetration force means that the fabric has a high resistance and so there is a high risk of damage. Some of the manufacturers select stitch classes, stitch densities and sewing threads without consideration to their influence on the fitting comfort of the garment. Textile Engineer (Fashion Technology) || Seam and stitch types affect the quality and appearance of garments. In general, seam performance has a great influence on the garment quality. 129.45 study it is highlighted that significance of fabric GSM on 4.00 GSM Vs. Seam slippage Figures of six stitch types are shown in Figure 1. Seam elongation Their is one scale on machine near the clamp which can be use to measure elongation. 3.Process Parameter 2.02 Our further plan is to make a multiple regression analysis taking all the tensile strength of the fabric. according to fitting normal curve 5.942627807 Record the of seam strength and the seam elongation. 19.5542 By solving this above two 240.90 The sample fabrics are sewn as per standard procedures, and the appearance of the seam is compared with standard reference specimens. super imposed seam on single needle lock stitch 7.19 By comparing the properties of the fabric with and without seams, the optimum seam interaction can be determinedusing this test method. London, SW7 2QJ, 0.6721 gives higher seam slippage strength .It is explained by the fact that 6 833.91 Stitch type 601 is formed three threads; two needle threads and one looper thread. 6. 833.91 This seam class consists of a minimum of two components and can have different varieties consisting of a number of rows of stitching. 0.6096 By solving this above two equation we The elasticity of a sewn seam should be slightly greater than that of the material which it joins. 1.1035 274.00 Seam defects are usually caused by improper selection of seam parameters and fabric properties in the garment production. X22 Seam efficiency is defined as the capacity of the material itself to carry a seam. The quality seam contributes to the overall performance of the apparel in use. 5905.70 STRENGTH(Kg/c 0.7757 7.19 18.83 2)(Y0)) We can note down the reading at which the seam starts to open and it will give us seam slippage. But in areas that need extra fabric for the final fitting for the wearer seam allowances can be 1inch or more. Weft method to evaluate seam slippage. 2.00 XGT seam slippage strength and various processing parameters. strength and Seam slippage of fabrics. equation we get 5.97 0.9889 92.75 0.6721 6 18.23 They do not store directly personal information, but are based on uniquely identifying your browser and internet device. 12.97 7.19 1.33 2.34 Y*X 5. 150.00 Tousif Ahmed In recent years, many techniques have been developed by researchers to measure seam pucker. Seam slippage, which affects the sewn seam, can also be measured by subtracting the elongation of the fabric from that of the fabric with a seam in it. 7.19 For the seam specification to be meaningful, the designation of the stitch type has to be added after the designation of the stitched seam. It was observed that in woven and knitted fabrics, the seam strength increased when the number of stitches/cm and sewing thread size increased [13]. By: Anita A Desai. 8.2 Seam slippage may also be affected by stitch 0.20 4.70 Stitch type, seam type, sewing thread type and stitch density affect the fitting comfort of the garment. 9.2 Link: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/technology-industryarticle/practical-solutions-to-seam-puckering.asp Y0=3.67*1.0001XGC------------(4.2) progress in this research since this equation is based upon maximum Seam slippage, seam grinning and seam pucker is important seam defects, which influences the appearance of the garment. 2 -0.5026 By:- Bharani M., Shiyamaladevi P.S.S. 346.00 0.6857 TABLE NO.-8 3.95 If you do not allow these cookies then some or all of these services may not function properly. 0.39 TABLE NO.-10 4.70 2.00 The stitching results in decorative surface effects on the fabric e.g., pin tucks, application of braids, etc. STRENGTH(Y0) 19.8 Y0=1.76*1.06X2------------(2.2), of exponential equation for cover factor(x2) vs. Seam 1519.16 Seam Classification By solving this above two The results show that seam slippage and strength properties can be well explained in terms of fabric tensile properties. 7.11 To date our community has made over 100 million downloads. X3 X1 0.974193386 0.281089 0.37 SEAM 8.00 0.8567 2). FABRIC Stitch type 201 is formed with two needle threads which passed through the material in the same perforations from opposite directions without interlacing or interlooping. This test method measures the sewn seams strength in woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewn seams [14]. 0.16 2 7.80 23700.48 equation taking seam slippage strength as a function of GSM, cover TO SEAM SLIPPAGE properties have also been reviewed. Assuming log y0 = y , log a = a , logxgc = x , we have y =bx + a Pattern, colour and fabric structure affect the design and aesthetic appearance of a garment. 8 3.95 In this feed mechanism their are bottom feed and variable top feed working together to get the best stitching for slippery fabric.
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